Your house floor is as important as any other part of the house. In fact, your floor will make a big impression in your house; whether a living room or a kitchen. Many people tend to be more conscious on other parts of the home such as the kitchen, the bedroom, furniture and the gardens than the room floors. The look of your floor will depend on many factors.

The type of flooring will depend much on the texture and your style. There are different kinds of flooring which you may choose from. Each flooring has a different way of maintaining it. Therefore the treatment you give to your floor will determine its lifespan. Taking good care of the floor will help you save on the maintenance and other costs that might be brought about by not taking care of it.

Whereas other people may risk taking a new kind of flooring, several others would want to stick to oak flooring. If you want your floor to be much beautiful and perverted then go for the real oak flooring. Its texture offers different colours so it is ideal for you if you want something stylish. More importantly, another reason why it is loved by many is that it is durable and long lasting.

Contrary to what most of the people’s believe; that oak wood floor is best used only in rooms where there is less activity, with the engineered oak flooring it can be used anywhere in the house, even in the bathroom, kitchen and the living room.
Before you decide on the kind of oak flooring you want, you must first understand the different types of oak flooring. Solid oak flooring requires a high level of DIY so you have to look for a qualified fitter to avoid damaging the floor. Most manufacturing companies have installation instructions therefore you have to follow the condition laid down properly.

In the other hand lacquered oak flooring are well furnished therefore cleaning it isn’t much work. The only problem with this type is the scratches but most people regard this as another form of decoration. In the recent past brushed and oiled oak flooring is gaining popularity among many home owners. However, oiling of this floor should be done on a regular basis to maintain its texture.

How is laminate flooring laid?

The most important thing to consider in laying laminate flooring is the nature of the subfloor on which it is being laid.

Is the floor dry, firm and level?

For screed floors a vapour barrier (damp proof membrane) will be required. This prevents any residual moisture from the subfloor forcing its way upwards. It should be at least 0.2mm in thickness.

In addition, you will also require an underlay, available in various forms.

Laminate flooring can be laid on most floors including screed, wood, stone, ceramic, plastic or similar. It is imperative however that you comply with the specific information and specifications of the manufacturers when doing so. Laminate floors should not be laid on top of carpet unless it is a very short pile carpet such as fixed down tiles.

Most new laminate floors are glue free, making installation easy and quick and allowing the customer to use their floors immediately. The flooring is laid as a floating floor meaning that it is not fixed down to the subfloor in any way. It also means that there is the requirement of an expansion around the perimeter of the entire floor. This is usually 10mm. If the laminate floor exceeds eight to ten metres in either width or length you will need to insert an additional break in the floor this is known as an expansion joint.

What is the 10mm expansion gap for?

Laminated flooring will expand and contract throughout its life span. If there is no expansion gap around the entire perimeter of the flooring the boards will lift up and the flooring will become damaged. The expansion gaps MUST remain empty and not filled with cork strips.

Do I need a fitting kit?

Yes a fitting kit is an essential part of the tools used to install laminated flooring. It contains the spacers to measure the 10mm expansion gap.

Does the flooring need to acclimatise to the room it is to be laid in before installation begins?

Yes, ideally, a minimum period of 48 hours should be left for the flooring to acclimatise to changes in its new surroundings i.e. the central heating system, warmth from the sun etc. The flooring should be left in its packaging during this period.

What type of underlay do I need or can I use my existing carpet underlay?

A suitable HARD FLOOR underlay is required with all floating floors (meaning the flooring is not fixed down in any way).

Carpets (and carpet underlays) do not form a suitable base because the pile layer in the carpet gives way excessively under load allowing the joints in click/loc systems to be subjected to damage.

There are three main types of underlay on the market at present.

A 2mm foam underlay which is suitable for most floor surfaces as long as the floors are flat. On concrete floors an added damp proof membrane (DPM) must be installed first.

A 7mm fibreboard underlay which provides extra heat and sound insulation to floors; again a DPM must be added on concrete floors. The fibre boards will help to overcome slight imperfections in the unevenness of floors.

There is a new breed of underlay, which includes the heat and sound insulation of the fibreboard, but is thinner, just 3mm, and also includes the DPM already in the construction of the material.

Why do I need a damp proof membrane (vapour barrier/PE sheet)?

Manufacturers always recommend the use of a vapour barrier (Polyethylene (PE) sheet ) to protect the laminate flooring from moisture coming from the subfloor. This is particularly important for rooms without cellars and in new buildings. Without this barrier moisture will travel upwards into the boards. As the surface layer of laminates is non porous it will not allow even the smallest amount of moisture to penetrate into the atmosphere. Therefore the moisture becomes trapped in the core board and over time the build up of moisture will affect the floor.

Can laminate flooring be laid on tiles?

If the tile surface is suitably even and meets the requirements for laminate flooring in terms of the subfloor (see above) then it is in principle possible. Any unevenness or variations in height in the tile surface must be evened out.

Can laminate flooring be laid on floors with underfloor heating?

Laminate flooring can be laid on a hot water underfloor heating system if it is installed correctly. The underlay must be the right type for the underfloor heating system – it is imperative that the resistance to heat transmission is not too high.

The maximum surface temperature of the laminate flooring when laid must never be permitted to exceed 26 degrees Celsius since this may lead to unsightly swelling of joints and arching. It is therefore essential that you check with your underfloor heating manufacturer first.

Does laminate flooring have to be laid in a certain direction?

The overall visual appearance of the laminate flooring created by the individual boards is dependent on:



the direction in which they are laid in the room relative to the light source and



the main direction from which they are viewed.



It is commonly accepted that laminated floors should be laid in the direction of the main light source.

The laminate flooring arches. What can be done?

If the laminated flooring becomes undulated (arches) this will generally be because the floor does not have enough room to move at one or more points in the room. This is normally the result of a laying error, e.g. lack of or inadequate expansion joints.

It is important to identify any problems early and resolve them immediately. This will reduce the risk of permanent damage to the floor.

Inspect the entire perimeter of the floor and locate the points where the laminate has come into contact with a solid object or is being pinned down and the natural movement of the boards is impeded. Release any obstruction and the floor should revert to its original shape.

What is laminate flooring made of?

Laminate flooring is 80% wood: Wood fibres, wood chips, pulp derived from wood (paper). Wood products can be found in all three layers of the laminate floor: Decorative paper + overlay (wear layer), core layer, stabilizing layer. With the exception of the core layer each of these layers is impregnated with synthetic resin (e.g. melamine resin). These are pressed onto the core layer at high pressure and high temperature.

Does laminate flooring emit formaldehyde? Is it harmful to the environment?

Like all wood-based products laminate flooring also contains the substance formaldehyde, which can be emitted to the air retroactively. The amount of possible emissions, however, is absolutely minimal and falls within the range of “normal background levels“. This is comparable with emission levels from natural wood and is well below the legally permissible limit of 0.1 ppm (i.e. 0.12 mg/m³ of air), the so-called E1 value.

What is the correct way to dispose of laminate flooring and can it be recycled?

Any individual pieces of laminate floor can be disposed of along with normal household waste, it is now also possible to recycle laminate flooring.

What kinds of decorative coverings does laminate flooring come in?

Laminate floors can be designed with any logo, motif or finishing effect as the surface layer is a photograph. It can be textured or smooth, the possibilities are endless.

Is laminate flooring hygienic?

Thanks to its sealed surface laminate flooring is extremely hygienic. The surface coating, which is made of a particularly hard material (melamine resin), prevents dirt and bacteria from penetrating the floor. This makes the floor very suitable for use by allergy sufferers,

How do I find out which is the right laminate floor for my application?

First, consider where the floor is to be laid. Is the laminate flooring to be laid in the bedroom, in the living room, hallway etc? It goes without saying that the floor in the hallway will be exposed to more use than in the bedroom, for example.

All laminated floors must be tested for their suitability and wear ratings. The European Standards Agency has set strict guidelines for these tests and has produced categories for each level of wear resistance. These categories are called Abrasion Class (AC) and Impact Class (IC). They comprise of five main tests against Impact/Abrasion/Burning/Swelling/Staining. Companies show these results after testing their products on the packaging as an AC number or IC number. Occasionally there is a picture of 1 to 3 people and/or a picture of a house or offices.

AC4 products – at 60% tougher than AC3 this is a tough durable surface suitable for most rooms in the house including high traffic areas and can also be used for general commercial applications. Its IC value is IC2.

Below is an example of the classes and the pictures.

How do I care for my laminate flooring?

The best way to maintain the floors natural look is with a dry clean system. Any stubborn stains can be removed with a damp cloth or if required a touch of acetone. It is not recommended to wash the flooring as excessive moisture will penetrate the joints and the boards will swell.

Due to the nature of laminated flooring and the surface being non porous, it is not recommended to wax or polish it in any way. This will result in the flooring becoming very slippery and the wax or polish will not adhere to the surface.

What does the Guarantee cover?

The manufacturers guarantee covers manufacturing faults in the boards. It does not cover accidental damage, abuse, misuse or damage to the floor caused by incorrect fitting.

How do you fit the flooring around the doorframes leaving a 10mm expansion gap?

The bottom of the doorframes (architrave) needs to be removed at a height sufficient to allow the underlay and laminate boards to pass underneath. The remaining architrave hides the 10mm expansion gap between the wall and the floor.

How do you attach the trim and where?

Trim Adhesive should be used when fixing the trims to the skirting or wall after installation. The trims are always attached to the wall or skirting; never to the flooring itself, as this would impede the expansion of the boards.

Do I have to separate each room when laying flooring throughout the home?

Yes. Each room has its own environment governed by the amount of sunlight exposure, moisture levels from plants etc, so each room will have differing rates of expansion and contraction. The use of a door threshold to separate each room will alleviate any problems that may occur.

How do you fit the flooring in a bathroom?

Laminate floors are generally not intended for use in wet areas such as bathrooms, saunas, steam rooms etc. However, there are some floors which have a moisture resistant core board suitable for domestic bathrooms, kitchens and utility rooms.

In bathrooms the ideal fitting technique would be the removal of the toilet and sink units during installation and then replacing the units on top of the floor. If this is not possible, a 10mm expansion gap will be needed around each unit. This gap can be covered with a flexible sealant. A joint sealer can also be used during installation to give added protection in vulnerable areas.

Is there any advantage to applying glue the joints?

There is no added benefit to adding glue to the locking joints, in fact this may cause some problems during installation as the profiles are milled tightly and adding an extra element to the fitting process will make installation difficult.

How can I protect my laminate against wear?

The use of felt pads and castor cups on all furniture is recommended as this will prevent unwanted scratching and marking. In internal and external doorways mats are recommended to remove grit and moisture from the soles of shoes.

What is the drying time for a concrete subfloor?

It is generally the rule that concrete and screed floors take 1 day per 1mm drying time under normal conditions. However if a room is not water tight or the level of moisture in the atmosphere is higher than average please allow extra time to compensate.

Color has an amazing effect on our emotions, moods and senses. Yet, we often don’t give them the consideration they deserve when decorating our home. The right colors can create a sense of warmth and promote relaxation while other colors can energize us or leave us feeling blue.

Color isn’t universal either. We all perceive color differently, even across cultures. For example, the Chinese perceive red as being calm while Americans feel it is aggressive.

When choosing colors for your bedroom, don’t forget to think about the color of the bedroom furniture itself. A lot of homeowners and even designers give endless thought about the color of the wall treatments and the fabrics without giving a second thought to the color of the furniture that is an integral part of the room.

Strange, since wall treatments and fabrics can be changed out easily if you don’t like them but changing the color of the finish on your furniture furniture can be difficult, if not impossible.

That’s why it’s vital that you think about the color of your furniture when decorating a bedroom.

For example, black bedroom furniture commands attention, but it can also make a room look smaller. So you may want to use it in a larger master bedroom rather than a small guest room. White, on the other hand, is neutral, allowing you to contrast it with colorful bedding, flooring and wall treatments. It is perhaps the easiest color to work around for Modern bedroom furniture, since it adds light to the room and gives it a breezy appearance.

The warm look of wood bedroom furniture connects us to the outdoors and can create an emotional bond with nature. This is particularly true of the lighter woods such as maple, birch or pine. The darker stained woods can offer a feeling of elegance and warmth, especially when combined with bedding of silks, velvets or overstuffed comforters.

Browns are also very neutral when it comes to bedroom furniture. This is both good and bad. On the plus side, it means that your furniture goes with nearly any décor, even if you plan to have purple walls. On the down side, your bedroom furniture simply blends in with the surroundings, since everyone is used to brown furniture, particularly wood furniture. It can come across as bland.

Bedroom furniture with an orange hue, on the other hand, can make you happy while yellow can become irritating. Perhaps that’s why you don’t see much yellow furniture these days like you did in the 70’s.  Red is exciting, which can make sleep harder to come by. Finally, blue and green are calming, though these colors may be better suited to bedding than the bed itself.

Because colors, and even shades or tones of color, affect each person differently, you need to see what works for you. Just don’t forget to consider the color of the bedroom furniture as you shop for the right look for your master bedroom or guest bedroom. It has a greater influence on you than you may think.